New York: Take a Bite of the Big Apple
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

	The World's Most Famous Skyline - New York City

New York City is without question the world's ultimate tourism destination. New York serves as the worldwide symbol of urban life. Although it is totally American, the world as a whole sees New York City from a universal perspective; NYC typifies the big city, and acts as a representative of the city scene throughout the world. No other place on earth has had its image exposed as much as that of New York. NYC has some of the finest examples of urban architecture; the arts scene is legendary, and includes theatre, opera, dance, museums, painting, sculpture - in fact for any imaginable art form NYC nearly always has the best, or at least among the best. The restaurant scene here is also remarkable, whatever you want to eat when you want it. NYC is a shopper's dream come true - if it can't be found here, it's unlikely to be found anywhere. NYC also has wonderful parks and offers countless leisure activities. All the positive aspects of city life can be found in New York City - the deservedly but self-proclaimed 'capital of the world.'

It would be foolish to deny that New York City is without some negative elements. However for the average visitor to this magnificent place, with a little advance planning and some common sense, only the positive elements need to be experienced. As far as the negative images are concerned, it should be said that New York City has been very much cleaned-up since the well publicized urban decay that reached its culmination in the 70s. Today's New York City is well down the list in crime statistics, with many places throughout the U.S.A. having much higher crime rates.

The events of September 11th, 2001 not only changed New York City, but also changed the world. What touched everyone was the courage and indomitable human spirit of so many New Yorkers - this was a very positive aspect of what was otherwise an unparalleled tragedy. New York will never be put down and the disaster should in no way put people off visiting this legendary place. Security is now very tight, and rightly so. New Yorker's take this in their stride and still go about their business with a very positive attitude and with their unique brand of humour ever present. To witness this courage is inspiring for any visitor to the city. To be succinct - New York City is still very much open for business.

To see all that New York City has to offer in just one visit would be impossible; in fact it would take years of living here to really know this city. It is not just huge, in terms of population which consists of over eight million people, and area comprising 301 square miles, but in concept. This city is so eclectic and its scope so large that to really know it well, would be the equivalent of becoming intimate with a fairly large country. However a few days in New York is certainly a lot better than never experiencing it. In a short time it is possible to fit a lot of activity in. Whatever your personal taste, New York City never fails to move people. At first glance, the sheer pace of NYC seems totally insane, but most people adapt to this fairly rapidly. New York is a dazzling combination of romantic charm, grandeur and (to some people's tastes) even crass vulgarity. It combines huge shock value and yet is tremendously appealing. Like L.A. the whole world feels they know New York personally, yet NYC seems so real, with its feet placed firmly on the ground, in contrast to the dreamlike ambience of Los Angeles.

History

The original inhabitants of the land that is now occupied by New York City were the Algonquin Native Americans. The first European settlers were the Dutch. In 1609 Henry Hudson claimed the land for the Dutch East India Company, although the Italian explorer Verrazano had first laid eyes on Manhattan Island in 1524. The Dutch colony of Nieuw Amsterdam was established in 1627. Its first governor was Peter Minuit and he was responsible for the notorious transaction when he purchased the island of Manhattan for a handful of baubles. The main problem with this was that the Native American's he 'bought' the island from, were not even local, they were merely passing through. The colony developed and the Dutch built a wall around their colony - today's Wall Street follows the site of the wall - to keep the British out. However when Peter Stuyvesant became the governor, the Dutch were very dissatisfied with his despotic style - he banned alcohol and suppressed religious freedom. They all but welcomed the British when they claimed the area, and so Nieuw Amsterdam became New York without any significant opposition.

The city grew relatively slowly and despite the British presence remained largely Dutch in character. There was some opposition to British colonial rule as the years passed, but this was not very significant and many New Yorkers with roots and family in England were reluctant to enter a war for independence. In fact, the British for most of the Revolutionary War controlled New York City. At this time the population was around 33,000 people. George Washington was sworn in as the first president of the United States in New York City in 1789. By now New York was a busy and grimy seaport, with all the character and seediness prevalent in such places. In fact Thomas Jefferson referred to its 'depravities.' The city grew rapidly from then on. A street grid system was implemented as early as 1811. The construction of the inland Erie Canal in 1825 increased trade in the northeastern US significantly. This development benefited NYC in that it became the economic and financial center of the nation. By 1830 the population had reached 250,000 and in 1842 the Croton Aqueduct was constructed to bring in fresh water, dramatically improving the quality of life in the city.

Later in the 19th Century famous financial giants such as Cornelius Vanderbilt, Andrew Carnegie and J.P. Morgan brought status and prestige to the city; and their major philanthropic contributions in the form of various institutions and buildings can still be felt to this day. At the same time local government corruption was rife, as was worker exploitation, the beginning of racial tension, and very sub-standard housing conditions. New York City has always had challenges, and always seems to deal with them in a unique way. The social upheavals brought about in part by the city's rapid growth did contribute immensely to the character and culture of this great city. In fact local discourse doubtless inspired much creativity from a plethora of artists and writers who witnessed these turbulent times, and experienced life in New York personally.

The Statue of Liberty

By 1880, NYC's population was over one million people, and expanding rapidly due to mass immigration from Europe. The ethnic blend of New York City is always gaining a new ingredient. In the latter part of the 1800s newly arrived Irish, Italian, Chinese and Eastern European Jewish immigrants (to name but a few) added to the melting pot en masse and the great cultural and artistic diversity of the city was further enhanced. A large number of African Americans also arrived from the south seeking prosperity and racial equality - they did not necessarily find it. The mass immigration was certainly symbolized by the arrival of a very important immigrant from France in 1886 - the Statue of Liberty - a symbol of the freedom and new life that America's offered to the 'huddled masses' that flocked there. For many immigrants New York City was the first and final destination in their newly adopted land.

Space was at a premium and the end of the 1800s also saw the development of the skyscraper - building upwards instead of outwards. From early on, to avoid infringing on the light of neighboring properties, the skyscrapers were required to be tapered in profile - a policy that would be helpful for many of today's new high-rise buildings being constructed everywhere. Of course these added immensely to the dynamic atmosphere of the city and have been a trademark of New York City ever since. The most noteworthy are the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building. Of these two the Empire State Building is the most spectacular and offers the best views.

In 1898 the until then independent communities of Brooklyn, Queens, Staten Island and the Bronx were incorporated as boroughs of New York City. A new wave of immigration took place in the first quarter of the 20th Century. In 1900 the population was already three million - it multiplied almost three times in twenty years, and by 1930 it was 7 million. The Great Depression brought a great deal of misery to the city. However a much-loved mayor was elected into office - Fiorello La Guardia instigated a strong network of social services and ended a lot of inefficiency and corruption.

La Guardia also implemented a number of public service projects that - while providing much needed employment - were controversial, and in retrospect short sighted. The advent of the motor vehicle seemed to pave the way for a sophisticated network of roads and highways. Public transportation was sacrificed for this, but nobody could have anticipated the immense amount of vehicle traffic that would eventually come to be. At the same time the neglected transportation system was not expanded because it was falsely believed that everybody would use private vehicles from then on. The result of this is today's congested roads and transportation system.

World War II brought new prosperity, and obviously New York played a major role as a gateway to the Atlantic and the war effort in Europe. Post War brought a new dynamic. There was a mass migration from the inner city to the more spacious suburbs, and so an urban blight fell upon the downtown areas of Manhattan and the Bronx. Many jobs and industries moved to the new 'happening' place - California. Though New York remained important, by the 70s New York City was broke and urban decay was rampant. Crime statistics were at an all time high.

It should be said though that a decline in New York City is a very relative concept. Where it may mean the downfall of other communities, New York City is the perennial 'Big Apple.' Even in the worst days of the 70s and early 80s, the city was still a major player on the world scene. New York City has never been eclipsed by any other place, nor is it likely to be - so entrenched is it in the psyche of the world as the ultimate urban conurbation. Thanks in part to another popular mayor by the name of Ed Koch, the 80s brought rejuvenation to the city and this has continued ever since. The boom in the stock market and previously unimagined wealth certainly helped to put the city back in the forefront of world commerce. As previously stated, crime rates are down dramatically and many of the formerly run-down neighborhoods have once again become fashionable and affluent. Today mass air travel has made New York an attainable dream for millions of people from around the world. With increased security and the strength of New York's people the events of 2001 will not change this.

Climate

New York City's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean has a strong influence on the climate. Humidity in the area is always high, year round. This means that in summer temperatures seem higher, and in winter colder than the actual thermometer reading. Summers can be very hot, but there is nothing like walking in Manhattan in a balmy breeze in the early hours, or enjoying some of the finest cuisine available anywhere at a pavement cafe. Air conditioning is practically universal here, so indoor relief from the heat is always at hand.

Although winter can be cold and there is often snow on the ground, indoor activities abound - the cultural season is in full swing. Watching the skaters (or joining in) at the Rockefeller Center is a New York City tradition, as are the Macy's Thanksgiving Day or St. Patrick's Day Parades - a giant-sized celebration when everybody is Irish for the day. Spring in New York is magnificent, the blooming trees and flowers in the many parks contribute to a sense of renewal, and even in the heart of 5th Avenue everything seems fresh and clean. Autumn is also wonderful as the city awaits a new batch of plays and other arts events with eager anticipation. The foliage in Central Park is most impressive, and a trip outside the city limits up the valley of the Hudson River to the Albany area is worthwhile for the spectacle of color.

Transportation

	New York City Taxi Cabs

New York City is a major hub for all forms of transportation. There are three major airports serving the area. New York, La Guardia is closest to the downtown, and has domestic service from all over North America. New York, JFK (John F. Kennedy) is one of the major international airports of the world. There are flights here from virtually everywhere, as well as domestic flights - in particular trans-continental flights by larger aircraft that cannot use La Guardia. Newark, New Jersey is the site of New York City's third airport. A major hub, Newark in New has service from all over North America, and an ever-increasing number of international services also. All the airports have bus services to Manhattan, as well as shuttle buses that will take visitors to any destination in New York City area. Taxi is a more expensive proposition. From JFK it is even possible to take a combination of transit bus and subway, for a long, but interesting and economical trip to downtown Manhattan. New York City is famous for its extensive bus and subway system - New York City Transit.

New York City has always been a port and of course was the entry point for many immigrants to America. Sadly the only scheduled passenger liner service to New York City is the Cunard Line from Southampton, England. This is an incredible way to travel to New York - especially the entry into New York Harbor - a chance to relive the experiences of millions of immigrants. It is still possible to book passage on one of the many cargo ships that travel to New York City from all over the world - a lot of them carry a limited number of passengers. A large number of cruise ships also use New York as the port of embarkation and disembarkation; so many vacationers take a few days in NYC before or after their cruise.

New York is also the starting point for a vast network of buses that reaches out across the continent. The buses arrive and depart from the Port Authority Terminal on the West Side. Many world travelers commence their American tour in NYC and then take the bus right across the country, utilizing special unlimited travel passes that are available.

Trains are also a major player in the New York City transportation scene. Fast commuter trains serve the heavily traveled Northeast Corridor between New York and Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washington D.C. There is also long-distance service from nearly all points in the continental USA, as well as from Toronto and Montreal in Canada.

Featured Attractions

It is very difficult to make a list of what is best to see in New York City. Rather than a series of individual places or events, New York is an experience and individual sights and attractions tend to make up part of a whole. The city appeals to so many different tastes that the phrase 'something for everyone' is no cliché when referring to NYC. However amongst the hundreds of potential areas of interest, or essential experience for the visitor, certain things are an essential component of a New York City vacation. The ultimate symbol of New York City, and America as a whole is the Statue of Liberty - more formally known as Liberty Enlightening the World. France presented this sculpture to the United States in 1886. Designed by Frederic-Auguste-Bartholdi it took 10 years to construct and design. The design is of copper stretched over an iron framework (designed by Gustave Eiffel whose tower was named after him). Over the years the copper and iron corroded, but happily Lady Liberty has been lovingly restored to mark her 100 years in New York. It is possible to take a ship to the island the statue stands on, and even climb up to the observation windows conveniently placed in the crown. However this is a very popular pastime for visitors and so for many the crowds are a deterrent for many, and unless one gets to the terminal for the boat that takes visitors out to Liberty Island early a long lineup is usually the case.

Actually the best views of the statue are obtained by sailing past on the Staten Island Ferry. For many years this romantic New York institution was known as the 'cheapest ride in the world' - at 10 cents. Now it is even more of a bargain as the charge has been totally waived. This ride commands magnificent views of the whole of New York Harbor, and is essential to capture the true feel of the great port city. Staten Island seems quiet and relaxed compared to New York City, but the main attraction is the ferry ride itself and the wonderful panoramas of Manhattan that it offers.

The Great Hall, Ellis Island, New York

The immigrant experience is such a pivotal one for the whole of the New World and nowhere is this as evocatively recaptured as at Ellis Island. It is said that approximately 40% of today's Americans have ancestors that arrived in the country through Ellis Island. Ellis Island is located in New York Harbor close to the Statue of Liberty. A special boat leaves the Battery at the southern tip of Manhattan for both Liberty and Ellis Islands. This complex served as the immigrant processing point for millions of immigrants from 1892-1954. Interestingly enough wealthier immigrants who sailed in cabin or first class as opposed to steerage were not processed at Ellis Island but at the terminal where the ship docked. The class distinctions that so many had left the Old World to escape were still very much in evidence in America - the difference being that they were based on wealth rather than birthright.

Ellis Island must have been a very stressful and traumatic experience for newcomers to the country. Often alone, sometimes very young, or very old, immigrants were put through a seemingly endless barrage of documentation and health checks before gaining admission to their hoped for promised land. Lineups seemed eternal, the noise must have been overwhelming and the whole experience would appear to be somewhat degrading and humiliating. The expressions of frustration, even cries and pleas in a countless selection of languages must have made the biblically aware immigrants feel as if they were in the Tower of Babel. And yet it also must have been an exhilarating feeling - to finally be in the New World with the chance of a fresh start in life and the potential to make one's fortune. Authorities rejected only two percent of those processed through Ellis Island. This was due to the would be Americans having either a contagious disease or giving the authorities reason to believe that they would be a burden on the state. Only the worst cases were rejected.

Finally clear of all red tape, new immigrants were released to the big wide world of New York City. At this point predators in the form of con artists and other undesirables were waiting to pounce on the 'green' immigrants at the exit of the complex - many of these had taken the same steps themselves in the not too distant past. Of course the vast majority fared well and the fruits of their courageous decision to emigrate to America is very much in evidence all over the country.

Today Ellis Island has been carefully restored, through self-guided tours and a variety of multi-media presentations, it is possible to learn a lot about the immigration experience when Ellis Island was in full operation, and about US immigration from the earliest times to the present day. Any North American cannot be anything but profoundly moved by the Ellis Island experience. Except for indigenous peoples, our ancestors (or ourselves) went through similar experiences. For any immigrant the moment of arrival in a new country forms an indelible impression on their soul - the restored Ellis Island captures this extremely well.

For lovers of art and even those with just a passing interest New York City is a Mecca. There is a seemingly endless variety of galleries and art dealers for browsers and collectors. What is particularly wonderful in New York City is the selection of first rate art museums. There are three that are particularly remarkable, but this is not meant to indicate that the many other art collections are not worthwhile. They all have something distinct to offer the New York City arts scene.

The Museum of Modern Art or 'MoMA' has an outstanding collection of paintings and sculptures beginning with the early impressionists to contemporary works. Photography, film, architecture and design are also covered. Paintings include works by everyone from Cezanne and Van Gogh to Picasso and Pollock. The sculpture garden has work by artists including Rodin interspersed with various design artifacts.

New York's most well known museum, and one of the truly great art museums of the world is the Met - officially known as the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Met's collection includes over three and a half million works of art - which is barely imaginable. The huge museum receives over five million visitors annually so it can be crowded. As well as the vast permanent collection, there are always special exhibits, lectures and inaugurations of new work that are all open to the public. Many consider the Met's collection of European paintings to be unrivalled anywhere - particularly the early Dutch and Flemish collection including work by Breughel (a particular favorite of young visitors) and Jan van Eyck. The Nineteenth Century Gallery has a marvelous collection of impressionist and post-impressionist works.

Other galleries include the American Wing, Medieval Galleries and the more recently added Lehman Collection, which brought some priceless Italian Renaissance works to the museum. The Rockefeller family funded the Africa and Pacific Island Arts section. Going back to ancient times there is the Greek and Roman Section, and the Egyptian Art Gallery which includes real mummies and an entire temple - the Temple of Dendur. This temple was donated by the people of Egypt and brought to America to save it from destruction in the Aswan Dam project. The collection here is all encompassing and impossible to summarize. Obviously with such a wide range of works to see, a visit here needs to be very focused or a lot of time needs to be allocated.

The third exceptionally notable New York City art museum is the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum. The familiar spiral-shaped building that this is housed in was designed by America's most eminent architect Frank Lloyd Wright, and many visitors come to the museum for this alone, without even considering the collection. The design of the museum very much enhances the art displayed there as once inside the work is displayed along the walls of the ramp as visitors ascend along the spiral to the top of the building. Among the great works here are some mobiles by Calder, a major collection of Cubist art, and an almost complete collection of works by Kandinsky. Chagall, Picasso, and Modigliani help round off an eclectic selection. There are also many more works by some of the world's most famous artists.

A part of upper Manhatten that many visitors miss, is the fascinating neighborhood of Harlem - from an African-American historical, social and cultural perspective Harlem is unbeatable and while not materially rich, is rich in heritage. The subject of some exaggerated bad press in the past, the main tourist areas of Harlem are usually perfectly safe during the daytime, at night the nightclubs and other cultural activities that attract tourists are also secure - best to come with a nightclub tour group or by taxi though. The area is well policed but for those who are nervous it is probably best to take a guided tour of the neighborhood. Try to find a tour company that is culturally sensitive and whose Harlem tours are guided by local Harlem residents.

Harlem has some beautiful examples of 19th Century architecture - some consider Striver's Row on 138th Street to be the finest row house block in the whole city. The jazz and blues clubs here are legendary and Harlem is home to the Apollo Theater - long the venue for the top African-American acts in the country, including Duke Ellington, James Brown, The Supremes and Aretha Franklin. Today the Apollo is best known for its Wednesday Amateur Night, and reputed to be well worth attending.

Another form of entertainment (and where many African-American artists started out) is the gospel choirs. Harlem's most renowned is the choir of the Abyssinian Baptist Church. Many visitors to New York City attend the Sunday morning services here just to witness the heart-wrenching intensity of the performance of the choir. No matter what a person's beliefs it would be difficult not to be moved by this choir. There are actually tour buses that visit the church services which is in somewhat poor taste, this is after all a place of worship, but visitors who come independently are most welcome - please don't use cameras during the services though and dress in your Sunday best.

	The Rockefeller Building, New York City

There is probably nowhere on the face of this planet that offers a greater selection of places to eat, and available varieties of cuisine than New York City. While this cuisine originates with the influx of the various immigrant groups to the city, some of these specialties have come into their own in New York City. For example pizza originates in the Naples region of Italy, but only when it reached New York with the many Neapolitan immigrants to the city, did pizza reach its full potential and became the internationally popular dish that it is today. Similarly bagels were brought over by Eastern European Jews; they were eaten plain, and although they could be tasty were somewhat uninspiring. It was in New York that the idea of eating bagels with exotic fillings such as lox (smoked salmon), cream cheese and other delights was born. Today New York Bagels (especially those baked in a wood oven) are the world's best and have inspired the setting up of bagel bakeries all over the world.

It is not only the innumerable types of food that you can eat here, but also the great variety of eating venues. This ranges from portable carts selling delicious fast foods such as hot dogs, gyros and hamburgers for those that like or need to eat on the go, to fine internationally famous palaces of haute cuisine that import the world's great chefs and emphasizes the latest culinary trends. New York has a greater selection of this type of restaurant than anywhere else does, and the chefs at these places become celebrities in their own right. In between the hand carts and the gourmet is a huge variety including: 'holes in the wall' (bare bones furnishings but often phenomenal food), delis, take-out (that often specialize in one kind of food such as soup, salads or sandwiches). Also widespread are coffee shops, pavement cafés, delis, department store and office-complex cafeterias, drug store lunch counters (where eating standing up while reading a newspaper becomes an art form) and many others.

New York City is also famous for perennial favorites - established restaurants that are very much a part of the New York scene and cater to a particular clientele, such as Sardi's. Sardi's is the world famous restaurant that has caricatures of famous show business people lining its walls. The Broadway tradition on opening night is for all involved in the production to go to Sardi's to dine and await the arrival of the daily newspapers to read the reviews of the play or show, and then celebrate or commiserate accordingly. For visitors to New York it is an enjoyable experience to have lunch or dinner at Sardi's and revel in the atmosphere and tradition of this establishment. Daily specials are always available. Dining with a wonderful view of the Manhattan is another option, and there are many wonderful locations on top of various skyscrapers.

While enjoying New York City's culinary scene it is important to remember that price is not necessarily indicative of the quality of the food; sometimes the prices reflect the perceived 'experience' of the institution rather than the palatability of its fare. The best advice is to ask a local where the good places to eat are. Two things are certain, the selection will be overwhelming and - with persistence, whatever the palate craves will be obtainable.